Kryston Hooklength Troubleshooting

Loose coils when casting at long range are down to one thing only, inconsistent tension when spooling up or retrieving. When spooling on new line the tension between your fingers should be set at a suitable level, the pressure being placed on the mono should be consistent all the way through. That way all the coils end up having the same degree of tension like peas in a pod sitting snugly on the spool.

Loose coils that occur when casting are a sure sign that at one point the line has been wound on with an unequal degree of tension. Varying tension not only occurs when winding brand new line on but also can be induced whilst retrieving. You can spool new line on in a perfect manner and when you cast it will behave spot on without loops. But when retrieving if the tension is not constant, or it is slightly haphazard, the following cast will often produce a loop.

Loops are mini birds nest, they are created by the manner which line is wound onto the reel. The correct amount of tension has momentarily slackened at some point. The coils wound on with slightly lesser tension sit marginally looser on the spool. You cannot spot them with the naked eye. In turn they are then covered with further coils containing the correct degree of tension.

As the cast is made the line departs from the spool tripping over the rim in a constant manner. As the line level becomes lower each departing coil comes up against slowly increasing resistance and the line speed gradually reduces. When it gets to the turn of the slightly looser coils to trip off the resistance is dramatically reduced and they peel off faster, albeit briefly. The sudden change in speed allows the slacker coils to accelerate and surge forward, they quickly catch up and catch up with the slower moving coils ahead!

That is how a mini birds nest or wind loop/knot occurs. It is the same thing that happens using an overfilled spool, you never suffer with birds nest on an under filled spool. It can take as little as two turns of the bale arm with incorrect tension to cause a rogue coil.

The key to trouble free distance casting is developing a perfect line lay with the emphasis on equal tension throughout. The longer the distance the more crucial the line lay becomes. When retrieving it is always advisable to keep the speed constant. High speed retrieving often is the cause of varying tension as the spool builds up. You will achieve far more control and equal tension by winding in at a slower and steady pace. No big loss, all it means is that your rig will arrive a few seconds later.

The degree of tension between too tight and too slack is very slight, it really is only marginal. Watch the professional tournament casters in action, fixed spool or multipliers it makes no difference, they take an eternity to wind in. The longer the distance you are casting the more time you should spend on the retrieve in order to get 'that' perfect line lay for the next chuck. When you are casting a shorter distance no loops appear, because it’s only a lob. However when you have to use full power and compress the rod to its maximum the line leaves the spool in a blur, if the line lay and tension are not 100% correct a mini loop will appear.

Of course it's not always possible to wind in evenly especially when your rig hits weedbeds etc, this is why many experienced anglers choose to pump the rod sea fishing style. By pumping the rod tip up and dropping it quickly slack develops, then wind in using fingers on the line to maintain a degree of tension. Pumping the rod on weedy or snaggy waters with appropriate tension will give you a far better line lay than straightforward continuous winding. If you already were aware of these facts then I am teaching egg sucking and apologize, if not it's a little food for thought.

Dave Chilton

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The following information will solve your problems allowing you to maximise the full potential of this unique product.

Over the years forward thinking anglers have used Bogey to great effect. Although it was introduced over ten years ago this remarkable glue continues to catch virtually all types of fish when used in conjunction with seeds. Hemps amazing pulling power can be quickly harnessed by the use of Bogey to form specimen sized seed hook baits.

First of all there is no such thing as a tub of Bogey that is not sticky. Every single gram is exceptionally sticky, far stickier than any tube of glue. Bogey is a type of glue that never sets it just requires a little preparation.

So why then is the Bogey you have purchased not sticky for you? The simple answer is you have been applying it wrong.

I tried the tub you returned and made a number of balls and squares of hemp that stuck instantly to the seeds without any problem whatsoever. Five days later the seeds are still firmly stuck. In order for you to be successful follow these instructions to the letter.

Unscrew the lid. The white liner inside the lid will often be stuck to the contents inside the pot. The liner is there to prevent the inner material from sticking to the lid. To remove the liner grip its outer edge and using slow sustained pressure slowly prise it from the grip of the Bogey. Most anglers can do this but in case of difficulty use a pair of forceps to slowly prise it off. Take care not to leave any material on the thread. If you do the lid will stick to the thread when you screw it back on making removal more difficult next time you use it.

Once the Bogey is revealed it should have a firm hard texture almost like clear rubber.

Before removing Bogey from the pot it is vital that your index finger is wet. Bogey will not stick to anything that is wet moist or greasy. Moisten your index finger before attempting to remove it from the pot.

Stick your wet index finger into the Bogey and work it into the material with a firm twisting action. The Bogey will have a solid almost rubber like texture. As a guide work your index finger into the material up to the depth of the first joint of the finger. Once your wet finger is immersed in the material bend and crook your finger to the shape of a hook to get a good grip.

Remove the Bogey with your curled finger by applying sustained pressure. Once the material starts to stretch increase the pressure and remove it with a fast snapping action. If done correctly you will have a slug of material wrapped around your finger.

By removing it with a fast snapping action you prevent a long thin trail wafting about. The slower you snap it out the more you increase the chances of a long wispy trail. So increase the pressure and snap it out firmly.

Now we get to the point where your problems arise. The more you handle Bogey the more you contaminate it with the natural oil and grease from your skin, this will adhere to Bogey instantly.

To emphasise the point the worst thing you could do is to roll it in the palms of your hands to form a ball. If you have done this all you have done is coat it with a film of the natural grease and oil from your hands. Bogey is so sticky that the oil from your skin will immediately stick and transfer to it. Once Bogey has a film of oil on it nothing will stick to it because nothing sticks to oil. All of the stickiness lies inside and beneath the surface.

However if you have over handled it and it has become less tacky do not worry, all is not lost. Here is what to do.

Using moist fingers hold the edges of the Bogey in each hand within moist finger and thumb. Now move both hands apart slowly stretching it just like a piece of chewing gum. You will notice its appearance has changed appearing to be very shiny and extremely sticky. What you have done is now exposed the very sticky material which was once on the inside of your oil coated ball. Once you have stretched it apart gently fold it back on itself. Once folded simply drop it into a bag of dry hempseed.

The dry hemp will instantly adhere to the material on contact, using your fingers squeeze and press the hemp over the entire surface. After the slug is covered in dry seed squeeze it firmly into a rough ball and when completely covered roll it firmly between the palms of your hands.

By giving it a good roll you are compressing the seeds onto the surface, the longer you roll it the tighter the ball will be. The ball by now will be perfectly round and reasonably soft and mouldable to the touch. Once the bait is covered in hemp simply form it with your fingers into the shape of your choice.

If you are fishing over soft silt form a round ball and press it flat into a flat coin or disc shape, this will prevent it from sinking into the silt. Disc, squares, round shapes the choice is yours. Once the seeds are stuck to the surface of the material they will not fall off or be removed by small nuisance fish.

To make Bogey baits at home try the following.

Roll the baits into balls and then drop them into a glass of water and leave them to stand overnight. Initially the baits will float because of the dry hemp, after approximately four hours the seeds will blacken and take on the appearance of cooked hemp. By soaking the baits for twenty-four hours the baits will sink and the hemp will split exposing the tiny white kernels identical to cooked hemp.

Following around four hours soaking the buoyancy of the baits will start to decrease, as the hemp starts to take on water the baits will slowly sink to the bottom. If you require pop-ups make the baits straight from the tub on the bank and you will have around four hours before they start to sink. Alternatively should you want a long lasting pop-up stretch and smear a film of Bogey about 2mm thick over a cork ball or polystyrene and then press the dry seed into the Bogey.

If you wrap Bogey over a cork ball for good adhesion make sure you wipe the cork dust off first. If the film of Bogey is not sticky you may have over handled it. Just leave it standing for 30 minutes or so and miraculously the tainted coating will revert back to its original sticky state making adhesion of seeds easy.

Bogey seed baits accept flavour and work extremely well. Immerse your hookbaits into the flavour and allow them to soak for a few hours. The longer the hemp is soaked the greater the concentration of flavour the dry hemp will hold. Following casting the flavour soaked bait will release its cargo as water forces its way into the seed. You are then left with a hookbait that is slowly releasing its smell and attraction into the swim over a long period of time.

Bogey has many other uses. For pop-ups if your Heavy Metal putty is slipping on your mono or braid take a tiny sliver of Bogey and roll it barrel shaped around the line. Then mould the Heavy Metal around the sliver, your putty will not budge or become dislodged. Bogey will stick to the line as well as bonding the Heavy Metal firmly in place.

I have tried to describe to you in every detail of how to best use Bogey and although it has taken many words do not be put off. From opening the tub to making a bait it literally should take no more than twenty seconds. It’s all down to practice which many successful anglers have already found out.

Should the lid become jammed it means that you have let material creep onto the thread. Do not use brute force to remove it instead drop it into a pan of hot water or leave it on a radiator for a while. The Bogey will soften with heat and by applying slow sustained pressure the lid will eventually ease off. Then using a toothpick clean and remove the offending Bogey from the thread before replacing the lid.

Bogey follows the force of gravity, if you leave a ball of hemp on any surface it will after a period of time slowly start to flatten. Just reshape it before casting. Hope this information is of help to you.

Dave Chilton

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Regarding your difficulty with braids the answer is very simple, it is steam that is the problem.

To avoid losing the braids integrity and its structure being compromised (i.e. black fibres becoming loose from the main body) do not, I repeat, do not use steam to shrink your tubing. It amazes me that so-called experts who write in magazines continue to use steam to shrink tubing on their rigs.

To be honest it does not surprise me at all.

Getting back to steam, why anglers use it is beyond me. The temperature of steam is extremely dangerous to all brands of nylon and braids because it contains far more energy than hot water. The reason why they use it to break down caked on oil and grease from car engines because its scouring effect is many times greater than hot water. For instance food cooks far quicker in a pressure cooker than in boiling water.

A steam scalding burn is a great deal worse than a burn from boiling water.

A boiling water burn can be easily treated because it burns the skins immediate surface area. On the other hand steam penetrates and cooks the flesh beneath the skin, often this type of severe damage requires immediate professional medical treatment.

The temperature of steam can continue to rise well above 100 degrees Celsius and additional heat energy continues to be added, but water in liquid form will not go above 100 degrees as long as it does not have any impurities in it assuming that standard pressure remains constant.

If you still insist on using steam the safest way of protecting braids and mono is to protect it with an overcoat to act as a buffer. The ever-inventive Jim Gibbinson who I believe uses hot water to make his line aligners uses something as simple as a piece of drinking straw for the more delicate braids and is perfect for the job.

The straw can be easily slid over the braid or mono next to the tube and protect it from steams Damaging penetrating vapour. Simply slide it off when the job is done.

Some brands of shrink tube are better than others. Good quality shrink tube will shrink between 50 and 70% when using nothing more than freshly boiled water and unlike steam will not damage nylon or braids. For a rig making session when on the bank pour hot water into your cup, shrink the tube and then pour the water back into the kettle ready for your next rig.

If you make your rigs at home good quality tube can be shrunk perfectly well using a hair dryer but again for piece of mind protect the braid or nylon with a drinking straw, thanks Jim.

Regarding your Silkworm 12lb ultra soft the dark fibres that have shrunk and become distorted are made from extremely fine Polyester. They are there purely for balance and also to make the pleasing patterns that anglers appear to like.

However importantly they only contribute around 2% of the braids full strength. 98% of the strength comes from the Spectra or Dyneema white fibres. So should the dark fibres become loose or move out of place do not worry about any significant drop in strength.

The 12lb standard Silk-worm uses a heavier gauge polyester and because of this its brown fibres are more resistant to steam than the black finer fibres found in the 12lb Ultra Soft version.

Both versions break around 13lb when tied with a four turn grinner knot and if all of the coloured polyester fibres should break or shred on a snag the breaking strain would drop to approximately 12 and a half pounds.

Because you have sufficient skill to land carp on a 12lb hooklength as opposed to the 25lb breaking strains that many use the next step up is our 15lb Silk-worm. This braid surprisingly is as thin as our 12lb Ultra Soft and thinner than our 12lb Standard. I mention this to you in case you need to step up when encountering heavy weed growth, which occurs on many waters as the summer progresses.

Do try the drinking straw method or any tubing that protects the braid from steam, better still use quality shrink tube and just use hot water.

Hope this helps.

Dave Chilton

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